Clicker basics - compression, rebound, and how to test a change
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Editorially releasedLast reviewed: 27 Jul 2026
Clicker basics - compression, rebound, and how to test a change
Clickers fine-tune DAMPING - how fast the suspension is allowed to move. They do not change how stiff the spring is. Sag and spring rate first; clickers after.
The two directions
- Compression controls energy absorption when the wheel moves UP (hits, landings, braking dive). More compression damping (clicks IN / fewer clicks out) means more support, harsher on small bumps. Less means plusher, more movement.
- Rebound controls how fast the wheel returns DOWN after compressing. Too little rebound damping means pogoing, unsettled chassis. Too much means "packing": the suspension cannot recover between bumps and rides lower and harsher each hit.
LAISA counts clicks out from fully closed (the OEM-manual convention): turn the adjuster gently fully clockwise (closed), then count clicks out.
Reading the live factor logic (why LAISA suggests what it does)
- Rough / rocky / technical / slippery -> clicks OUT (compliance means grip).
- Fast layouts / jumps / hard braking / higher skill -> clicks IN (support beats plushness at speed and on big hits).
- Heavier rider -> slightly more damping overall (the correctly stiffer spring stores more energy).
How to test one change
- Change ONE adjuster, 2 clicks at a time (1 on track-bike forks).
- Ride the same section 2-3 laps; judge one question only: better or worse?
- Keep notes per change (LAISA's setup journal / sessions exist exactly for this).
- Lost? Return to the baseline (the saved setup) and restart. Never chase two problems at once.
- If you run out of clicker range to fix a problem, the problem is spring rate, oil height, or worn components - not more clicks.
Safety framing: starting points, never guarantees - verify on the bike, change one thing at a time.
Packing vs kicking - reading rebound
First, remember the click direction: more damping means FEWER clicks out (firmer compression, slower rebound), less damping means more clicks out. Compression is HOLD-UP - it keeps the bike up in its travel. Low-speed compression handles rider inputs, braking, squat and weight transfer; high-speed compression handles hard hits, square edges, g-outs and landings. Rebound is the RETURN speed - how fast the wheel comes back after it has compressed.
Rebound has two failure modes, and they feel opposite
- PACKING points to rebound that is too SLOW. After a set of bumps the suspension stays low, cannot recover between hits, and gets harsher and lower each bump - it loses traction because the wheel is not extending back into the ground. Fix: speed the rebound up, which means MORE clicks out.
- KICKING points to rebound that is too FAST. The rear jumps up and feels loose or nervous; the front deflects and skips off bumps instead of tracking. Fix: slow the rebound down, which means FEWER clicks out.
So the diagnostic pair is simple: stays low and harsh after repeated bumps -> rebound too slow -> open it up (more clicks out); jumps, loose, or deflecting -> rebound too fast -> close it down (fewer clicks out). Change one direction at a time and re-ride the same section.
Sources
Standard suspension practice; OEM service manuals (clicks measured out from fully closed); test-method is common race-team practice. Packing vs kicking diagnostic: common race-team and Dave Moss Tuning practice.
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Technical background explains how things relate - it does not replace checking on your own vehicle. See the methodology